Carbon Fiber Repair Panel
I found a great video demonstrating the repair of a carbon fiber composite panel. The is is a carbon fiber reinforce epoxy structure that needs a localized repair to the core material. This repair uses a vacuum bagging process to help maintain a high-quality laminate.
The video is sped up to quickly demonstrate the overall process required. This process requires a high level of attention to details, as they are very important. Training and experience are necessary for good results.
Chemical adhesion between all of these layers will create a bond that is durable and suitable for restoring strength back to the structure.
Auto Racing Composites
Roush Racing takes us viewers on a tour through their composites shop in a short clip from Roush TV.
Using mostly carbon fiber and kevlar reinforcements, Roush Racing fabricates many different components for the racing industry using epoxy resin systems. Ranging from the front noses for the NASCAR Car of Tomorrow car to drag racecar bodies and small ductwork, Roush Racing’s composites shop does all sorts of fabrication.
The race shop includes two different fabrication processes. Wet layup vacuum bagging is used for some parts, while others are made using prepreg material that goes into an autoclave.
The video tour is well done, and includes everything from the Eastman material cutter to the fabrication process, bagging process, and trim. We also get to see some of the finished parts after they are demolded and trimmed.
These parts are very expensive to manufacture, due to the high cost of materials and labor. Tooling and equipment costs for this type of process are somewhat reasonable, with the exception of the autoclave and the automated cutting table. Composites fabrication of this caliber is labor intensive, but can produce very unique parts that are lightweight and strong.
Vacuum Bagging Video
Vacuum bagging is a process that requires unique materials and processes, but can be simple to operation in an ongoing basis.
There are many advantages to vacuum bag molding, a few of which include:
- Improved resin/glass ratio
- More consistency across the laminate and part -to -part as compared to open layup
- Containment of air emissions from the resins
As compared to hand layup and chop layup, there are a few disadvantages, including
- Higher consumable material cost
- Higher capital equipment cost
- Difficulty with superior surface finish
Some parts are more suitable for vacuum bag molding than others. It also depends upon which process it is being compared with.
Vacuum bag molding requires an extremely tight seal between the mold and the bag. Molds with multiple pieces or holes for inserts can be difficult to complete a seal.
Parts that are overly large and complex can present challenges with placing resin and reinforcement before the cure cycle starts. The bag must be completely sealed and under full vacuum before the curing cycle of the resin begins.
The basic premise of vacuum bag molding is that the air is removed from the bag, allowing the atmosphere (air on the outside of the bag) to push the bag onto the part on the mold, compressing the layers of resin and reinforcement. Many misinterpret the process as “sucking the extra resin out.” We are merely allowing the laminate to be compressed by the weight of the air above us in the atmosphere to consolidate it before cure. The excess resin is usually absorbed by extra layers of sacrificial material inside the bag.
Bagging/Infusion On The Cheap
Vacuum Infusion and Vacuum Bagging can be accomplished are not only reserved for industry and can be accomplished in a workshop setting. Relatively inexpensively as well. One of the major variables is the shape of the part trying to be built.
We will look at a flatstock for now. The desired outcome could be either a test panel or a piece needed for flat construction. The mold will be the difference between this and any other more complicated shape. The mold must be able to be sealed from the atmosphere and waxed for release of the finished part, so my favorite “mold” is either a flat sheet of steel or a sheet of plate glass depending upon desired surface finish. This must then be waxed up with some paste wax to enable part release.
I always like to start with creating the perimeter seal. The 1/8 or 3/16 inch thick by 1/2″ wide gray butyl tape is the best. This is basically sticky on both sides and has wax paper on one side. It is sold at infusion suppliers or online as well. My little secret is that it is also sold at building supply stores, as it is used on polebuilding construction projects when sheets of steel siding/roofing are sealed together with this stuff. So this is unrolled and pushed down onto the mold and the wax paper is left on and facing up. Then I like to use cover this with some 2 inch wide masking tape.
Now we can start the part construction by placing our layer of gelcoat if so desired. Once this is cured, it is followed one of two ways. For vacuum bagging, the catalyzed resin-wet layers of reinforcing materials (glass or carbon) are placed down, including any core material. Once this is satisfactory, the peel ply is placed over the laminate, followed by the breather material. This is typically quilting batting, and a couple of good layers will do well to hold the excess resin from the laminate. Then the bag will be installed and a vacuum will be pulled which will pull the resin up into the breather material.
For infusion, the gelcoat is followed by the dry layers of reinforcing glass or carbon and core. Then any resin runner strips are added with a separation from the laminate with peel ply. Two circuits are setup; one for vacuuming the air out, and one for bringing resin into the laminate. The Vacuum circuit is accomplished with spiral wire loom wrap around the perimeter of the part leading to a T connection which will poke thru the bag. A resin inlet T will also pass thru the bag and lead into the runner strip. Now a bag will be placed over the part and sealed down. The hoses need to be vacuum rated, and can be either pvc or polyethylene.
A resin trap will be needed between the vacuum pump and the laminate for both infusion and bagging. This can effectively be accomplished by using a PVC pipe sealed at both ends with endcaps. Then drill and tap plastic or brass fittings and seal well with pipe dope. The fittings need to be at the top so that the resin will drop out and into the pipe. The resin will cure in the pipe and can be disposed when solid and full.
The bagging operation is accomplished by using polyethylene plastic that is free from holes, and in the range of 4 to 6 mils of thickness. Thicker plastic can do the job, but can be difficult to work with. The plastic needs to be cut larger than the area to be covered, typically by around 20 percent. It needs to be placed on squarely, and pushed into the butyl tape without wrinkes to create a good seal. The excess plastic is artfully taken up with extra pieces of butyl tape in these troughs that are connected to the main tape line around the edge. This can be very frustrating and is difficult to describle. But the bag will be sealed to the mold to create an airtight cavity. The resin hose needs to be closed off with vice grips.
Now the vacuum will be turned on. For the vacuum bagged part, once the vacuum is on, the part is basically left to cure. For infusion, the laminate is left to the vacuum to remove air and moisture for 20 mins to 2 hrs depending upon size. Infusion requires at least 27.5 inches of mercury, and 29 would be awesome. Any leaks need to be identified and eliminated. This can be difficult, but is necessary.
Now we are ready to put resin into the laminate. The wet resin is mixed with catalyst in buckets where the resin hose from the part is placed. Resin hoses are opened up and the resin flows from the bucket into the part. Once the part is full, the resin line is clamped off and the part is left to cure under vacuum. I typically wait at least 12 hours before demolding the finished part.
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