Structural Repair of Fiberglass Snowmobile Hood

The damaged snowmobile hood is prepped and ready for a proper repair with new fiberglass and epoxy resin.

The hood had already been ground to promote adhesion.  Then it was cleaned to remove contaminants.

The inside of the hood will be repaired first.  The repair will be completed using fiberglass reinforcement and epoxy resin.

To keep the resin from leaking through to the other side, I used masking tape to cover the crack and other holes, applying it to the backside of the work areas.

Masking Tape (green) keeps the resin from seeping through to the other side of the repair

The damaged hood was out of shape, and it needed to be pulled back to being straight.  The corners of the hood were cracked and the center section of the hood was moving around.  Not wanting the repair to permanently alter the shape of the hood, a pipe clamp was used to pull it back into the proper shape.

A pipe clamp holds the repair area in the proper shape.

The first part of the process was to mix resin and cut fiberglass.  Mixed epoxy resin was applied to the repair area to wet it out.  Then a couple layers of the fiberglass random strand mat was wetted out and applied.  Following  of the glass strand mat, the 1708 was cut out to cover the general area.  The 1708 was wet out and and applied.  Then another layer of glass strand mat was applied to the general area that was ground out.

An inexpensive bristle brush was used to remove the air bubbles and smooth out the layers.  This consolidates the fiberglass into a smooth layer that will add mass and strength to the hood.

Resin and fiberglass are applied to the area.

Epoxy resin and fiberglass materials applied to the repair area.

Both repair areas during the cure process.

The random strand fiberglass adds strength and adhesion to the 1708 fiberglass mat that is used to repair the cracks in the hood.

The mass is kept at a temperature of 60-80 degrees and allowed to cure overnight.  The following day the extra fiberglass edge is trimmed with a razorblade knife to remove the sharp fiberglass edge.

Following cure, the edges are trimmed to remove excess fiberglass along the edge.

The repair is allowed to cure for 24 hours before removing the pipe clamp.

The repair is structurally complete, but there is one more step to complete a professional repair.

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