Epoxy and fiberglass can be used to successfully repair hull and deck cracks.
There are some important steps to follow, and the correct materials must be used.
Epoxy resin bonds very well to many materials, including kayaks made of ABS, fiberglass, and epoxy resins.
Youtube user Mark Jones shares his experience:
Hurricane brand kayaks are repaired with epoxy and fiberglass. A final gel goat application makes the repair disappear.
Custom composite parts made from carbon fiber and epoxy can be made at your own workshop should you have the proper equipment, knowledge, and materials.
Doing epoxy resin infusion with carbon fiber reinforcement is pretty advanced, but is possible.
Here is an example that includes the process of building a custom mold:
From Youtube Matthieu Libeert
In this video I show you how to make a laptop case in carbon fiber from start till finish! This is a pretty advanced tutorial that should show you some insights on how I’ve made it. The laptop used in this tutorial is a Lenovo thinkpad X1 Carbon http://shop.lenovo.com/be/nl/laptops/… for more specs on the laptop if needed.
I’ve decided to share the progress on how I’ve build it on here. I know it very hard to make something like this at home without the right equipement but I hope this will inspire you in some way. At least it will show you how carbonfiber parts are made in the F1/bike/race/space industry
It all starts with drawing everything in fusion 360 to do a virtual fit in 3D. After that I’ve used my X-carve from inventables to cut out the exact shape. Have a look at http://www.inventables.com to find more about the X-carve
Once carved I’ve decide to route all the sides of the pre-mould to get a nice rounded edge on de MDF. MDF is a type of ‘wood’ that will suck up a lot of moist/water/resin. That’s why I’ve Decided to coat it with an epoxy resin, tinted with red pigment. polished it all and proceeded with the mouldmaking.
Everything starts with the release-agent. after that I use the entire uni-mould mouldmaking kit from Easycomposites http://www.easycomposites.co.uk for all the products used in this video.
First layer is the gelcoat, after that the coupling coat with a 100g/m chopped strand fiberglass. On top of that there is the polyester tooling resin with 4 layers of fiberglass chopped 400g/m
Let both halves cure, bolt them together and trim off the excess edges. time to demould and remove the piece, wetsand to a high gloss and get the mould ready to make the parts.
Used a technique called VARTM or resin infusion to create high end carbon fiber parts. Lay-up is 3 layers: 200 twill weave, 650 twill weave, 200 twill weave. peelply on top and infusion mesh to finish. time for bagging and tacky tape with all the connectors in place.
Used the infusion resin IN2 from Easycomposites and infusion was done.
Wetsand and trim the parts, glued them up and your done!!!
Epoxy resin can be used to repair problems with fiberglass boats. One such instance is the problem of having screw holes that are stripped out.
Grinding out and replacing the material will allow for a new, fresh hole to be made for your screw.
Stripped screw holes in fiberglass boat using epoxy & fiberglass mat fibers
Carbon Fiber / Epoxy materials have many uses and advantages. With a high strength to weight ratio and appealing aesthetics, it can offer a unique and custom touch to custom vehicles.
Using a CNC-controlled router to cut a part that will create custom shapes and sizes will allow for great fit and finish on your project!
From The Fab Forums
This episode of The Fab Forums I make a Carbon Fiber engine accessory bracket. I hope you guys dig it.
There were a couple of edges where the new fiberglass repair had been hanging over. These need to be ground back to recreate the clean edge.
The next step is to sand off the inside of the repair areas. The epoxy leaves a shiny surface. Sanding it down will allow it to create a better bond with the following process.
Now the inside of the repair can be painted. This paint is optional, but it does wonders to hide the repair. The prior failed repair was not painted over, and it was very obvious that there had been a repair. The paint in question was flat black spray paint from a rattle can. A layer of primer prior to the paint would have been a better solution, but this is only the bottom side of the hood.
The bottom side is completed, and now the top side can be finished. The surface has been filled, sanded, and smoothed. Now it can be painted.
The original hood was all gelcoated, and a proper repair would have been black gelcoat. However, the hood is 45 years old, and there were several other cracks and blems surrounding the repair area. A proper job would have included more work than the snowmobile was worth.
The last step was a coat of black paint. The primer and paint were both from rattle cans. The paint came out smooth, and blended into the surrounding gelcoat. It is much better than before, and the repair area looks good. The problem was that there are several other areas of the hood where the gelcoat was cracked and could use some repair. Again, more work than the entire snowmobile is worth. My luck is that this snowmobile hood will get damaged again anyway. These repairs should only fail from impact, not bad workmanship or materials.
Following the repair of the inside of the fiberglass hood from the Arctic Cat snowmobile, it is time to tackle the outside portion of the repair.
The outside of the hood had gelcoat that had been damaged, and is in need of a cosmetic repair. The hood had been prepped with a grinder to remove loose pieces and provide an abraded surface that will have good bond strength.
The first step is to remove the tape that had been limiting resin intrusion. The resin was well on the way to curing prior to the tape being removed.
Next was to begin the actual repair. The area was taped off to limit the resin and filler getting onto the neighboring gelcoat. The tape was used more as a dam than as a flat edge.
The repair material was a filled epoxy resin. The first step is to apply the pure mixed epoxy to the the substrate. This is done prior to the application of the filler. It helps with the bonding process to have some pure epoxy between the filler and the fiberglass.
Then a batch of epoxy filler was mixed into a thick paste to be applied to the repair areas. Part of the challenge is to fill the voids to be level with the existing gelcoat. If they are too high, they will need to be sanded off. Too low and a bunch more filler will be required.
The filler paste takes a while to cure. Once it does, the tape can be removed.
Then the sanding can begin. Beginning with a coarse grit helps the work go faster, but there is greater risk of creating damage to the surrounding gelcoat. The first pass here was at 80 grit.
These areas were sanded by hand. Power tools are available, but the overlap onto the gelcoat would have been greater. Depending on your project, that may not be as important to you. Going after an area with power tools runs the risk of flattening out the entire area and removing a bunch of gelcoat. The whole profile of the are could end up being sunken down from the original profile.
There were still a few very minor low spots that required filler. This was more of a “skin coat” so there was not the need for all of the tape.
All of the areas were skimmed with a thin layer of filler. Following cure, they were sanded again, but this time only a few high spots were sanded with 80 grit. The next stage was some 180 grit, finishing with some 320 grit sandpaper.
The final sanding was to ensure a smooth transition from the repair areas to the gelcoat areas. Making sure that there were not any dips or lines in the repair transitions will help to ensure that the repair will not be spotted. Sometimes the hard edges can be seen with a visible eye, but an experienced touch is the best way to check out a transition. Running your entire hand (not just your fingers) over the repair will help you gauge the smoothness and straightness of the repair.
The last thing to do is to paint the repair areas of the hood.
The damaged snowmobile hood is prepped and ready for a proper repair with new fiberglass and epoxy resin.
The hood had already been ground to promote adhesion. Then it was cleaned to remove contaminants.
The inside of the hood will be repaired first. The repair will be completed using fiberglass reinforcement and epoxy resin.
To keep the resin from leaking through to the other side, I used masking tape to cover the crack and other holes, applying it to the backside of the work areas.
The damaged hood was out of shape, and it needed to be pulled back to being straight. The corners of the hood were cracked and the center section of the hood was moving around. Not wanting the repair to permanently alter the shape of the hood, a pipe clamp was used to pull it back into the proper shape.
The first part of the process was to mix resin and cut fiberglass. Mixed epoxy resin was applied to the repair area to wet it out. Then a couple layers of the fiberglass random strand mat was wetted out and applied. Following of the glass strand mat, the 1708 was cut out to cover the general area. The 1708 was wet out and and applied. Then another layer of glass strand mat was applied to the general area that was ground out.
An inexpensive bristle brush was used to remove the air bubbles and smooth out the layers. This consolidates the fiberglass into a smooth layer that will add mass and strength to the hood.
The random strand fiberglass adds strength and adhesion to the 1708 fiberglass mat that is used to repair the cracks in the hood.
The mass is kept at a temperature of 60-80 degrees and allowed to cure overnight. The following day the extra fiberglass edge is trimmed with a razorblade knife to remove the sharp fiberglass edge.
The repair is allowed to cure for 24 hours before removing the pipe clamp.
The repair is structurally complete, but there is one more step to complete a professional repair.